Level 5 Garde Manger – Me and Shrimp… (Shrimp and I?)

Level 5 Garde Manger – Me and Shrimp… (Shrimp and I?)

So where are we…? Well, I’ll tell you. This may be a little spoiler, but we’re 3 days after I have graduated the FCI. I’ll leave that comment at that, and when I finally get to this point in the story, I’ll give you my insight.

So then, where were we? We were done with pastry, Level 5, and about to begin Garde Manger. On the menu was seafood ravioli for level 5 and consommé for level 6. I don’t remember what exactly was in the consommé (I think it had some star anise flavor, but there was a baked custard in the middle – placed on the plate and the consommé was poured over it - that was absolutely delicious). The seafood ravioli was also a big hit, considering it has mussels, jumbo lump crab meat and shrimp in it, but the true beauty of the dish was the pasta.

Chef Justin was our main garde manger chef, and Chef Wanda subbed in one of the 3 days of the week. I found both of their styles interesting, and have drawn my own conclusions on which I thought had better techniques.

I’ll touch upon all of this. The pasta takes about an hour to prepare. That is, after measuring out the amounts, incorporating, kneading, and finally resting in the fridge for a while, it will be at LEAST an hour before you can begin to roll it out. Further it wasn’t simply rolling it out and making raviolis. The dish was an open faced ravioli, so we had to cut squares and just layer them like a sandwich. However, the pasta was unique because we pressed fresh herbs into the pasta! We would roll out a sheet of pasta. Layer fresh parley and tarragon in it, fold the pasta over, and re-roll it. As we rolled it out again, the herbs would flatten and spread out within the pasta, leaving a blown up image of the herbs within the dough. It looked so friggin cool, and added a nice touch to the pasta. Preparing the pasta, from start to finish took one person almost all of the time before service to finish. In the meantime, the other person would have to work on the seafood and the sauce. The seafood was no walk in the park either. You had to sift through a tub of crab meat for shells and other hard pieces, peel, de-vein, and cook the shrimp. Cook the mussels and remove the meat from the shells, and prepare the sauce, which was usually prepared ahead of time. There was also some cutting of fennel and onions and other veggies as well. So there was quite a lot for this one dish.

Remind me to tell you guys a little something about peeling and de-veining shrimp that I didn’t learn until my last class in the kitchen. And perhaps one of my fundamental gripes with the FCI (it’s not that bad at all).

Anyhow, at service time, we would cook up a couple of pasta squares, reheat some of the seafood mix in some butter and broth, and then sandwich them, froth up some sauce and send it out. It was a really beautiful appetizer, and quite tasty (lord knows is met the minimum butter requirement that makes everything tasty). What I loved about this station was that once you were ready for service, if you received one order, or 12 orders, it was a simple bam bam bam operation. Cook the pasta, reheat the mixture, froth the sauce and serve. If your mis en place was set up nicely, it was a walk in the park (after the initial set up, of course).

So, on to the differences between Chef Justin and Chef Wanda. Chef Justin had the pasta pre-made by one if his earlier classes. That was cool because quite frankly, we did know how to make pasta, and with the right ingredient amounts, we should be able to produce the same results. However, it detracts a little from the experience because we did not have to make it, let it rest, and so forth. But it was a nice break for us. With Chef Wanda, we made it ourselves, which, again, is also cool.

Now the real difference was the setting up of the mis en place. With Chef Justin, when it came time to reheating the seafood mixture, we would take a few spoonfuls of cold mixture, sitting on ice, and reheat it with a touch of butter, a touch of broth, S&P and reheat it until it was warm. This was an a la minute preparation, which I thought worked well. Chef Wanda’s setup was a hot bain-marie, with all of the seafood mixed with about a pound of butter resting inside, over a low flame. So basically, the seafood was drenched in butter and continuously cooking, or should I say, over-cooking. I felt like this made the seafood so much more touch and chewy, and took away from the meal. This was the primary difference, and I felt that it was enough of a difference to really hurt the dish. I did not like that method, but of course, I appreciated being able to learn and choose which I preferred. Oh, she also put a lot of butter in the pasta water, which I felt was unnecessary. But again, I drew my own conclusions after experiencing both styles.

Either way, Chef Wanda is awesome, but perhaps crazier than she leads us to believe. What I loved most about her was she liked to cook with flavor. She was, after all, Puerto Rican. When she would make family meal, and add the Latin flare to the dishes, everyone ate and enjoyed, especially the dish washers, who were primarily Hispanic. But I loved her arroz con gandules, and other sofrito laden dishes.

Chef Justin is a relatively young guy, ex-college baseball player who at some point took a turn to the chef life. I think he went to the CIA, but I don’t recall. I also think he has a lot more stories than he shared with us, but I guess that’s for other students to drag out of him. It was a good station, without the stress of Chef X breathing down our backs, but still a high quality product.

Oh yeah, and one more thing which was what I mentioned previously. We had to peel a box of shrimp each time we were in the Garde Manger station. I also had to peel boxes of shrimp for other stations. Chef Justin gave me the basis of peeling the shrimp. Pinch off the legs, and the pull it out of the shell. Chef X took it a step further, after pinching off the legs and peeling the shell, lay out all the shrimp on the cutting board and slice them all, really quickly, down the back, depositing them into a bowl. Then you wash them in the sink to remove the veins. However, Chef Janet took the cake with her method. She simply took a pair of scissors and cut down the back portion of the shell. This not only made removing the shell a cinch, but it also cut the back and often times removed the vein, all in one shot!

WHY WAS I NOT TAUGHT THIS FROM DAY ONE?! Things like these, short-cuts, efficient shortcuts that save time and effort (perhaps the definition of efficiency), should be taught in classes, in the restaurant, etc. Why don’t the chefs communicate this with each other? Even after Chef X showed me his way, and seemed very confident that his way was perhaps the best, he seemed mesmerized by Chef Janet’s way, and said “do it her way.”

I learned this on my last day of level 6, after de-veining 8 boxes of shrimp at school by myself, and lots of shrimp at home. Seriously, why?

So, if Chefs are reading this at the school, I think its something to consider. Perhaps you should have conferences to discuss simple menial tasks that are carried out regularly, and then share your thoughts and decide upon a best way. An FCI way. So when we go to a kitchen, and they give us 20 lbs of shrimp to peel and de-vein, we have the FCI agreed upon best way. Yes, all chefs will do things differently, and some ways are better than others, but at least we’ll have in the bank what a collective group of great chefs determine to be the best method(s).
With that said, I can’t imagine what other ways there are to do the things that I’ve learned and have gotten good at. I wish I had more learning experiences like those.

Secret's out

Soooooo... somehow I was discovered at school. I guess this is what I didn't want to happen, but I also suppose that by writing a blog on a public website it was pretty inevitable.

I guess for starters, I can just put a little disclaimer and kind of explain what you've stumbled upon. I am providing an entirely biased, one sided view of this experience I have paid 30+ G's to experience in order to switch careers from a business/legal field to working in a kitchen. Yes, these views are entirely biased because they are all mine and mine alone. However, as I read and re-read my posts (believe me, the first thing I did last night when I got home at 11:45 was re-read some recent posts to make sure there was no slander or defamation of character), I think I can honestly say that my writing, in reflecting my views, are pretty straight-forward and honest. Until this point, the only people that read this blog were a few friends and family members, one guy who told me that I helped encourage him to sign up for the FCI, and most importantly ME! This has mostly been a personal journal, with personal things about class-mates and teacher-chefs which if I had a choice I would be happy knowing both of these groups did not see it, but I knew that by making this stuff public it was bound to happen.

Anyhow, I don't intend on changing my writing style or the subject matter (it tends to be less about the food and more about the interactions between students, chefs, and so forth, you know, the interesting stuff. If you read most of these posts, and find that you were a party to the situation, you would probably realize that its pretty much all true, albeit, my side of the truth.

Anyways, I'm done explaining myself, and if I don't bore you to death, I hope you enjoy reading. I'm sure the chef's will get a kick out of my inexperience and my blabbering as if I know what I'm talking about, meanwhile, my friends and family are amused.

So for the record, here's how I found out I was discovered. I'm in pastry for the restaurant right now, and that is a separate room from where our Level 5 and 6 chef, Chef Xavier, stations himself. After attendance, and a few minutes into getting ready for the class ahead of us, Chef Xavier walks through and says, "So, Edwin, I didn't know you were a writer." I played the dumb card. Threw it flat out on the table with a semi-straight face. "I don't know what you're talking about." I was hoping it was in reference to my phenomenal paper on Corsica and stufatu. But I had a feeling it wasn't. After catching up with him moments later, he confirmed my suspicions that it was indeed in reference to writing on the internet. I was most definitely curious about how he found out. Was it a student? Was it a chef, a random person. He said another chef had found it and sent him the link and printed out posts. I wonder if I had this chef already, or not. I wonder if this chef knew me and/or I knew them. And I wonder, most of all, if I said anything not nice about them. I have a feeling that I didn't, especially considering I have the utmost respect and appreciation for pretty much all of the chef's that I have had, and that I have seen in action.

(This isn't me kissing ass, its just my one sided honest view that I was talking about previously) And if any of you non-FCI people are reading this, I assure you the chef's here are top-notch, and I think you've realized this from my 69 previous posts (I can't believe I wrote 70 of these. You can see why I want to switch careers).

Speaking of which, I will get on to a post on Pastry soon. For now I need to keep earning that dollar to pay for my loans. I hope this doesn't cause any controversy, and if I find out that anyone is offended, I suppose I can stop.

Edwin is to Partner as Shit is to fan

I’ve been a busy cat lately. Sorry I haven’t posted in a while. Its ok (I can answer myself). So where were we? Well, I’m finished with the fish station. That was a piece of cake, and quite easy to do! I’m also confident that I can make a delicious Mediterranean broth for it. The lamb, however, is a little different. And by a little, I mean a lot. And by a lot, I mean a world of difference. I guess for starters, I can describe the dish.

By the recipe, we are simply serving 2 bones of a rack of lamb over some chick peas mixed with a tomato fondue, with some coriander and cumin seasoning. It’s actually quite delicious. Chef Xavier added a few components, including using some of the chick peas to make a puree mixed with tahini sauce, then layering it into a ring mold on the plate and filling the rest of the ring mold with the whole chick peas on top. We also take eggplants, peel and slice them, and wrap a mixture of onion and eggplant in the sliced eggplants and place that little molded eggplant next to the chick peas.

We have a white board for the two stations that do fish, and a white board for the two stations that do meat. For the fish, we put a star up on the board when an appetizer goes out. The star lets us know we should get our fish in the broth and cooking. Once we’re ready to fire the dish, we put it all together and bam bam bam, it’s all ready in a matter of minutes.

The lamb is a lot different since the meat needs to be finished to the proper temperature upon the star. Chef Xavier gave us minute amounts, though the time does not take into account different temperatures in the oven, and the opening and closing of the oven. So basically, it comes down to cooking all of the lamb to medium rare, maybe a couple of racks to medium, and when the order come sin, you make sure you have enough, and when its starred you finish cooking the meat to where it belongs.

Basically it’s all trial and error and keeping an eye and touch on things. Let me go out and say right now, my partner is a disaster. Yes, he is pretty good in the kitchen, but he’s an awful partner/teammate/team player. Awful. He doesn’t communicate, and tries to run the show, so when I am getting involved I need to try to catch up with his processes. Now, maybe that works for him and for other people, but I don’t work that way, as his partner. Further, he thinks his ways are the only ways and always right. For instance… I know for a fact that if you put a cold piece of meat in a 450 degree oven for 2 minutes, you are NOT going to heat, or worse, overheat (over cook) the center. It just won’t happen. I do know however, that if you put a plate in the oven for 5 minutes, it WILL get TOO hot, and the sauce you put on after will crust on the plate.

So when we have an order for a table consisting of at least one duck and one lamb, they should pretty much be brought up simultaneously, maybe a minute of time in between. So we have to communicate with not only each other but the duck station. My partner insists that he knows what’s going on and we should just get going. And I would point out, dude, we should ask the duck station and make sure we’re on the same page. He’ll go ahead and pop a plate in the oven and when I confirm that we have 5 minutes, he will leave it there and make a stink when I take it out for a few minutes.

I also explained that maybe I cannot tell a medium from a medium rare as well as he can by just touch alone, but I do know that a if we put a cold/room temperature medium-rare slab of meat in the oven, 3 minutes will not over cook it. But he insisted that 1-2 minutes is enough. I am sure those meats were going out to the customers cold in the middle. Not warm, but cold. He didn’t seem to care. In fact, as I explained my point and tried to convince him that he is not necessarily always right, I received “Oh my god, dude, you are the worst partner, I can’t even work with you anymore. I don’t know how you’re gonna work in a real kitchen.” With that said, I didn’t mind so much what he said because I realize his type. He’s bossy and swears that he is absolutely right every time. I didn’t take what he said to heart because I knew that I wasn’t necessarily wrong. I have been tolerant of his ways so far, and I will continue to do so. I don’t want to point fingers or throw someone under the bus, like he will to me in a heartbeat. But I guess since this is my blog, I can say whatever I please. He’s a jackass. He will indeed be a good chef, and probably a dick of a chef, but good. But I won’t be working with or for him.

I have worked up a confidence in what I do and my skills in the kitchen. His analysis really has no significance, especially to me.

So we had 4 days of the lamb station. I haven’t posted a single post on it til now, which will cover all 4 days.

My first day I struggled a bit for a couple of reasons. We didn’t have the communication that we needed. He would throw a rack in the oven, and not tell me, and get started on a setting up a plate. So when I turned around to help there was nothing for me to do, so I looked like a chicken with my head cut off. Fine.

By the end of day one, chef noticed this and told me to do a plate all by myself. Without my partner doing a thing. I was confident I could do it. The very first thing that went wrong was chef told me to go ahead and plate. However, the order wasn’t ready to go up because we needed to wait on the duck station. So I get started, obviously not realizing this. I warm up the meat, which was to be a medium piece. I felt the piece and it felt medium. However, it was cut from the rack earlier and some of the blood started to exude from the cut side. I know what a medium piece looks like, and I also thought I had a feel for it. So by touch, it felt medium. Without a doubt in my mind. By looks, however, it was a little red, not dripping blood but red from the blood that was extracted previously. I went by touch. Chef Xavier was like “what is that cooked to?” And I responded, “Medium, chef.” “How do you know its medium?” “By touch, chef.” And he touches it. Sure enough, he agrees, it feels medium. But we both agreed it looked medium rare. What was I to do? So I finish garnishing, and bring it up, just to be greeted by the head chef, Chef Candy, telling me, you didn’t communicate with level 6, and you’re way to early, you have to replate. So I struck out. I just looked absolutely foolish. I know my partner was smiling inside. Again, this is after my chef told me to go ahead and plate it all by myself, and I didn’t think to coordinate with level 6.

This is why I mentioned earlier the importance of coordinating with the duck station which I learned the hard way, and my partner seemed to be above.

The next 2 classes (which is a total span of 4 or 5 days) our chef was out sick. He therefore, missed my comeback, and the way I took charge of the lamb the second night and did a great job. The third night, we had another different chef, who want the lamb presented very differently than our chef, which was nice to get a touch of something different, knowing there are many ways to skin a cat.

So the last day on the lamb station is when my partner made those comments, despite the fact that we did a fine job during service. He also decided to not come in to class on Saturday, our first night of Pastry. I was running 10 minutes late, so that was difficult enough, but I texted him telling him I was running a little late. He didn’t bother getting back to me on the fact that he wasn’t even coming in. I realize he doesn’t like me. (I may have realized this long ago, which is part of the reason why I stopped hanging out with some of those cats). In fact it’s been months, and the one time I tried to hang out with them again, I realized I really hated it, so that was it. I also found out that the one girl of the group came to the same realization that hanging out with some of those people, particularly my partner, sucks.

I wonder who has been reading this blog? Apparently my grandma has been!!!! ;) I hope the people in my class haven’t found it yet. I’ve done some searches; it’s not the easiest thing to find, so I’m banking on that. Maybe they found it, and that’s why they dislike me.

I guess my next post will be on pastry. The chef is really nice but a hard ass. But really nice. And he helped me significantly my first night considering I was alone and late. I also picked up on his humor and adjusted accordingly, and also picked up on what it is he likes: cleanliness, order, methodical maneuvering and attention to the task on hand. So despite being late, AND not having a lot of my tools (which I loss since starting level 5), he warmed up a little to me.

Anyways, I’ve given up on my partner. I don’t care for him, and I will work as a good teammate because it is in my nature to do so, but I won’t let him get to me, and I won’t lose my cool like he lost his. That’s how we do. And I’m above his immaturity. Not a better person, but just above some of his antics.

Saturday Night Live!

First and foremost, we tweaked the dish a tiny bit tonight. We gave it another element, and we changed the aioli from an egg based aioli to a traditional potato based aioli. I didn’t know this either, but a garlic aioli was once just garlic, potato and olive oil, and salt and pepper, of course. Nothing more. Ours had a touch of saffron in it, which I think enhanced the color and presentation but barely affected the flavor.

Anyhow, we also added a base of braised fennel under the bass, to give it height, texture, and just another element to the dish. Quite frankly, I think it was great with the fennel, and a great idea on the part of the chef.

We took fennel, sliced it to about ½” and gave it a light salt and peppering. We then browned both sides in a sauté pan and placed it over a bed of sweated onions. We barely covered it with chicken stock, placed a piece of parchment paper over it, and baked it in the oven until it was tender.

When that was ready, that became the base of our fish dish. We then proceeded as we normally did, with the fish on top, the onions and red peppers on top, some of the poaching liquid, and topped it with the crouton with aioli. This time, we made a little herb mound on top, using the fennel tops, which is a beautiful almost dill looking herby green, and chervil and chives. The dish this time looked a lot more impressive than either of the times before. In fact I was bringing up two plates and Chef Xavier calls over to me “Edwin!” I look, thinking I just mucked something up. “Looks great,” while he threw up the international ok symbol (index and thumb together in a circle with remaining 3 fingers up in the air… yeah that one). That was nice.

SO, Saturday night is when it gets busy. In fact the level 6 fish team wasn’t quite a team. It was one guy doing it all by himself, and he was rocking it! We needed to wait a minute or two for him on sending out some dishes, but considering he was by himself, it was pretty impressive. We helped him out in any way we could, but he was pretty set.

Scott and I have been a little shaky on our teamwork until this class. He would tell me to relax a few times because the truth of the matter is I was pretty nervous and things were intense, considering this was my first time in the restaurant kitchen. He has been working in restaurants for a year or so by now, and has a lot more experience. He was right. Our dish doesn’t take long to make, so we had some time before we had to bring out our dish. And the fact of the matter is the bass is really simple. Once the accompaniments are prepared, which is before service time, the rest is simple. Put everything in a sautoir, and then cook the bass for a few minutes.

So the orders start coming in, and I just relaxed. Took it one by one, or 4 by 4, whatever the orders were, and we were smooth sailing. We would plate as a team, prepare the fish as a team (as in lay out the next amount of bass that we might need for the next order). I would place a slice of fennel on the plate, he would lay the fish, veggies and sauce, I would prepare the herbs and so forth.

At first he was the big shot because he’s been in this position, but as we got into our groove and realized this was a piece of cake, we were on the same level playing field. It was a team effort no matter how you look at it. If I went to get dinner, he manned the fish, and vice versa.

About 25-30 dishes later, we got our last order, and we started cleaning up. Out of no where, the order board is clean and down for the night, the executive chef screams out ONE BASS!! I’m thinking, are you serious? And he’s like, “really, one bass, I forgot to call it out.” And sure enough, I prepared one final bass. Thankfully we didn’t throw anything away. Scott gathered some of the things we put away and I took care of the dish. We worked well together.

Now, Chef Xavier. First off, he’s a brilliant chef. On top of his shit, and has a keen eye for details. He took note that there were peppercorns mixed in with our capers. I noticed something looked odd, but he was like, what is this? Why are there green peppercorns in the capers (FYI, they were mixed together in the jar, but labeled as just capers). He’s all over that shit like a Vietnamese whore at a rodeo. (I just used that analogy to respond to one of my bosses. I hope he enjoyed it).

However, last night, the executive chef was yelling some orders to the meat station where Chef Xavier was helping out, and Chef Xavier was screaming back “NO WAY, you ordered only two, we have no more and we can’t make anymore.” Another French Chef was there, working the appetizers, and was like, whoa chez, relax, and said some stuff in French, probably about being in front of the students.

Chef Xavier works 7 days a week, and is one of the few Chefs that still works at a restaurant. He is pretty much the shit. He’s also very nice to us, and respects us, and treats us as cooks not kids. He keeps an eye out for us, and doesn’t let us fall under the bus. We’ll see how this station progresses. After just another class or two, we move right along to the next station. It’s really brief, and kind of scary. But its fun! And it’s not too bad. The 5 hours go by really quickly. Amazingly fast.

Goodbye Level 4

All in all, I must say, the 8 of us in level 4 have pulled off something that, as Chef Rob explained it, could only have been done by dedicated students. And I think we are just that. The 8 of us there have one agenda when we’re in class, and that is to produce a quality product. Chef Rob has explained to our next chef that we are a great class of 8 that works like a class of 16. Chef Janet said many times how sad she was to see us go, and we have to visit frequently. Chef Janet was definitely awesome. She showed us some amazing things that we never imagined doing (making our own bacon and pastrami and ham!!!) Chef Rob also showed us some incredible things and opened our eyes to new techniques and possibilities.

By the way, I believe I mentioned the slow cooked wrapped chicken that Chef Dave Arnold showed us. Well I took some home and fried it up for some friends who were in the house, and they were amazed. I explained I didn’t make it, but it was still fantastic. I didn’t deep fry it, but I did sauté it. And I made a rookie mistake. I got the oil nice and hot, but I failed to dry the skin properly before putting it in. It made for a little more of a mess (splattering), but it also allowed the skin to stick a little to the pan. It wasn’t a terrible thing, the food still came out great, but I should have known better. I realized it as soon as I put it in the pan. I must say, it’s been a while since I did some real cooking, so I need to really think a bit more before I jump right into it. So as a reminder, when deep frying or sautéing, the purpose of the oil is for flavor, color and to prevent sticking. If you do not remove the excess moisture, then you counteract this initiative and there will be more splattering and sticking to the pan.

Anyhow, to be perfectly honest, after we finished buffet, it felt like level 4 was over. And unfortunately that was after the first two weeks of level 4. Family meal was… just rushing to make some food and then not really giving a shit about the rest of class. Most of the time we busted our asses for no reason because people either didn’t need food, or we had our buffets and no one ate the family meal. And then when we got to production, we were never really rushing (except for getting the fish and chicken to the restaurant), but we were doing fun projects like curing meats and the like. Chef Janet was great because she let us focus on the aspects that were important, like the filleting of the fish and the butchering of the chicken, while she maintained the stocks and worked on other projects. And then when we were ready, she let us run the show.

So on our last day of level 4, the buffet guys did an entirely dessert themed buffet. They must have made about 10 or 12 different desserts, ranging from individual cheesecakes, to crème brule, chocolate tarts, bread pudding, ice cream sandwiches, and the list goes on. It was pretty amazing. That meant they weren’t making real food, so the family meal and production group had to step in. We put out our deli meats, a smoked sturgeon and a cheese fondue station for the pastrami. The family meal guys put together a “breakfast for dinner” station. They used some of our molasses bacon that we made. We didn’t let them touch the maple brown sugar bacon. I must say, the molasses bacon was absolutely delicious. I will try the maple bacon this weekend, but I am trying to eat a little better so maybe just a touch.

By the way, the pastrami was phenomenal! The ham and turkey breast were also amazing! Its indescribable, to be honest. Have you been to Katz's delicatessen? Well our meats could have been showcased there. It was quite an accomplishment. I went to party later that evening with the deli meats, and between about 5 people, we finished over 2.5 lbs of pastrami and turkey breast. They were impressed and I was pleased that we were able to make such an impressive product.

But the family meal team was making bacon egg and cheeses on bagels, they prepared lox and set out cream cheese for bagels, they were making omelettes, eggs benedict with a fresh hollandaise, etc. etc. It was pretty great. Oh they also put together a delicious corned beef hash and some tasty home fries. They did a fantastic job.

Oh, how can I forget? One of our classmates, Grace, is a great cellist. Her roommate is a musician as well. So Grace asked her to come in and play violin, and she did just that. It was AMAZING. It was such a classy affair, though we were in a kitchen and many of us were wearing our kitchen whites. Chef Rob was so proud of this class. We consistently raised the bar and produced some quality work. Chef Rob made a reputation for himself as a kick ass level 4 instructor, but he would never fail to mention that it couldn’t have been done with the 8 of us.

On to the kitchen of l'ecole.

Livin Sous Vide loca

SO we’re doing Production now. It’s cool. But let’s put that aside for a moment. We just had 2 lessons at the end of the previous two classes, totaling 3.5 hours on this relatively new method of sous vide and low temperature immersion cooking.

In brief, sous vide is a method of cooking items in a vacuum. We had a pretty large machine that sucked the life and air out of a package and sealed it. It was a large metal container with a glass domed top. You lay a plastic bag inside with the contents that you want to seal airtight and turn the sucka on. In a few seconds you see the gauge reading the percent of air removed. It reaches a 100% vacuum, airless atmosphere. When the machine turns off, and the bag is sealed with its contents, and air returns to the chamber, the bag compresses as much as the contents allow.

So for instance, we put a stack of white bread in the machine, without putting it in a bag, and we sucked the life out of it. Because the bread is so porous, the air was sucked out, but when it was done, the air easily refilled the pores. When we put marshmallows in, the y first started to expand, as the air was sucked out of the middle (since the outside is less porous, the air inside pushed against the inner walls until it broke free. When the machine was turned off the marshmallows just shrunk! And the texture went from light and fluffy to thick and Turkish delight textured. It was actually delicious and interesting. I enjoyed it. However, when we put the bread in a bag and compressed it, the air got sucked out and as the bag sealed and compressed, it just SMOOSHED the bread. So the point is you can’t just put anything in these things without some thought about the texture and what your goal is.

With that said, we tried a few texture modifications, which uses this concept of removing the air and compressing the item, as well as some flavor infusions (including alcohol).

Before we go on, the chef that instructs this course is Dave Arnold, and he specializes in this stuff. It turns out sous vide (vacuum) stile of cooking is not fully understood, and therefore the Dept. of Health won’t allow it to be served to the restaurant without a full HAACP plan. (I forget what that meant but it was something about food safety and storage and serving, etc. I did get a 96 on that test!!) But Chef Dave Arnold mentioned that if he could, we would do A LOT more sous vide cooking if he were allowed. But he sure does experiment all the time and looks for the right temperatures and the right times. It’s pretty scientific, but what’s great is cooking in a vacuum, provided you cook at the same temperature each time and same amount of time, is a guaranteed controlled method of cooking. The result will be the same EVERY TIME. Kind of like that old experiment of a feather falling as fast as a brick… in a vacuum.

So the first day we just did some basic stuff, learned some concepts, looked at some results of eggs cooked at different temperatures. It was amazing seeing the difference of 1-2 degrees Celsius. As I mentioned, if you follow the time and temp (particularly the temperature) it will be the same every time. There is even one stage of egg that the yolk turns into a moldable clay like substance. It holds together like clay and some chefs are using these yolks to sculpt cute little egg things… so we’re told.

As I touched, the beauty of the sous vide method of cooking, and just immersion cooking, is you can cook something and keep it in the water for HOURS, and as long as the water is circulating and the temperature is constant, the product will not overcook! So if you want poached eggs… set them to 62 or 63 degrees Celsius, and use them as you’re ready. They will all be the same. Always.

So the next day, Chef Dave has a rib eye and a piece of prime rib that were cooking sous vide for a while. We took them out, dropped them for less than 30 seconds in a vat of hot oil and pulled out beautifully crisp, tender, perfectly cooked meats. They tasted INCREDIBLE! We also had a whole chicken skin which had some chicken “meat glued” inside, and rolled. That was cooked for an hour or so in an immersion, then we deep fried that for a moment. Incredible. It tasted so frigging good! I brought some home that was unfried, which I will fry up real quick, and it should be super delicious still. The texture of the meat was so tender and moist, but not like fully cooked chicken, though it was fully cooked.

One of the last things we did was some watermelon infused with different alcohols and a vanilla and vodka mixture. Those were pretty good. They were VERY alcoholic, but still delicious! If they had better alcohol, it would have tasted really great.

Here’s where we stand with our creations.
Pastrami – COOKED! We smoked then steamed it, and it smells incredible!
Turkey breast – COOOKED! We smoked it for a while and it’s looking great
Bacons – COOKED! We smoked those too and those too, look fabulous.
Smoked sturgeon – I almost single handedly did this one. I put it in a salt, sugar and dill and onion cure, and then we cold smoked it followed by hot smoking it. It looks fantastic.
Bratwurst – We packaged and blanched some brats, need to cook on Saturday. I brought some home though. Looks great.
Ham – We put it in an immersion cooker and we let it sit over night. Should be fabulous!

Everything is looking good, and tomorrow is our last class of level 4. Oh my. We’re almost in the restaurant.

Production 2

This may be one of the more interesting sections so far. As I have mentioned a number of times, Level 4 is split into 3 sections. Apparently they will be reorganizing and redistributing responsibility of these sections for the classes that follow, however, for now, there is buffet, which is strictly setting up for the 2 buffets that you produce while in that section. There is family meal, which, as its name suggests, is strictly providing food for everyone in the school to eat (including the nights of buffets since not everyone makes it to the buffets). And finally there is production the section I am in now. Production is the least strict section as far as guidelines of what you have to do. Of course the buffet allows creativity, but you are only working on your buffet. For production, you start your night by assessing the stock situation, and checking to see if you need to produce chicken stock or veal stock or a fumet. You also MUST break down the fish and chickens necessary for the restaurant. We’re supposed to have that done by 6:30, but with 3 people working on 3 different things, it gets complicated. Chef Janet understands that the stocks are important, but she actually lets us work on breaking down the proteins and she gets the stocks going. I think that’s really great of her so we can then focus on the more creative aspects which I am going to get into.

By the way, I broke down the cod. After a THOROUGH examination I only pulled out a couple of worms from the fish. I think that’s pretty good!! That is, pretty good that the fish only had 2 worms. It was still gross. The cod was pretty nice to fillet. I think I did a great job. I got all the pin bones out, cleaned it up nicely and skinned it nicely. I was pretty proud of it. I wasn’t super speedy, but hey, it was my first time doing it, and I was trying to do a great job for the guys in the restaurant. I can’t imagine when some of the knuckleheads in Level 3 come to level 4 and break down some busted chickens for us. We’ll see. I’m sure the chef will have something to say if we’re getting poor cuts.

So after all this, we delved right into our projects. We got our second brisket of beef, which I cleaned up and cured with the pastrami salt mixture. Carlos finished up the Boudin blanc we were making (ground it up, seasoned it and got it into sausage casings), and Steve got going on some cures for our ham and turkey breasts.

We literally injected brine with a huge syringe into the ham and turkey and watched the flesh pump up. I think its going to be great. The brines had all kinds of herbs and seasoning. We got those puppies submerged in brine, and now it’s the waiting game.

After dinner, Steve and I prepared two cures for bacon that we will be making. One cure was a molasses cure, the other, which I think will be better, was a brown sugar and maples syrup cure! How does that sound? And you know, it really wasn’t hard. Its something ANYONE can do. Provided of course you buy the belly fat and have the means to smoke it afterwards.

I think, however, the highlight of the night was deboning a whole chicken WITHOUT taking it apart. What’s that? You want details? Sure, why not.

So the first thing you do is cut the wing off at the second joint (as we normally do). Then you take out the wish bone, which, we learned a new method to do, which doesn’t tear into the flesh. Take your knife and scrape away at it. Don’t go jabbing in there and hacking away at the flesh. Just take your knife, scrape, and then use your finger to dig in and get the bone. It was a great new trick, and it worked well.

Once you have that out, prop the chicken up and look at its shoulder. Start cutting and scraping away the flesh. Detach the arm from the shoulder and keep making your way down the one arm bone. Soon you’ll be able to pop the arm bone right out. Get going on the other arm, then don the ribs and around the neck, spine and back. There will come to point when you need to flip it over and star from the bottom of the rib cage and then the thigh and legs. I guess I can’t rally describe it since it’s mostly a process of scraping against bone and cutting around joints. But I assure you, I have a beautifully boned chicken, intact, waiting for a mean stuffing. We’re thinking about stuffing it with seasoned ground pork, which would probably be delicious! She also gave us a brilliant idea of filling it with a portion of pork loin, surrounded by either ground pork or chicken, and then roasted. The beauty of it is being able to have a seemingly whole chicken and slicing across it as if it’s a boneless piece of tenderloin, eating almost every part. This makes a fantastic centerpiece for a fancy meal. You can even stuff it with a traditional stuffing if you’d like.

In all, this is a fun portion of the class. Even though we ran about 20 minutes late since we needed to break down the day time stocks, it was still very fun, informative and creative!

Let’s see where this goes…

For starters there are a few main goals for production. The first and foremost is to prepare the proteins that the restaurant will be using. That is, breaking down a few chickens and a few fish. However, opposed to the chickens we broke down for family, these chickens require more care and attention. Since it is for the restaurant, it is imperative that the skin remain intact and you get the oysters, remove the wishbone and manchonner the legs. It’s rolling back to the basics again, and doing it right and fast.

We weren’t told that we needed to get this done by 6:30! We got in at 5:45 and we took a mini tour around the production area, counted stocks, etc. But no one mentioned that we needed to break down these meats for the restaurant by 6:30. With that said, one of the restaurant chefs came in and yelled at Carlos because he didn’t have the chickens ready in time. It was a bit of a rude awakening, but at least we know that it needs to be done earlier. The fish, I assume since they take less time to cook, were not pressured, but Steve and I took our time, and were no earlier than Carlos. There’s a lot of pressure to make sure we do not mess up these fillets, and to make sure we get all the skin off, and get all the pin bones. Whenever you’re doing something for someone else, you want to do a great job so it reflects nicely on you, and they know you’re trustworthy (which may be a downfall!! Sometimes you do a menial task so well you get asked to do it again and again!)

Actually, what’s pretty gross is the cod have WORMS in them. And this is NATURAL! But DISGUSTING. Steve was pulling worms out of the cod!! It was sick. But it had to be done. I just had some cod at a restaurant the other day, and it looked good, and I didn’t see any worms, not that I was looking, but the thought of it now is kind of nasty. Even though I am the type of person who will justify that if the worm is cooked, it’s probably okay to eat, but it’s still gross seeing the worms in the fish.

Something interesting was that we were told to use our butchering knife instead of our fillet knife for breaking down the fish. I can’t say that I was impressed with it. It’s so rigid that I couldn’t ride the knife along the bones, but instead I would start at the bones and end up just cutting into the flesh slightly. The fillet Looked fine, but I would have preferred the fillet knife with perfect smooth lines. It’s a mixed blessing that we only have 6 classes of breaking down these proteins. The pressure will be off, but at the same time, this is what being a chef is all about. Being able to take a whole fish, chicken, etc., and transform it from raw to beautiful and cooked.

Along those lines, we prepared a dry spice cure for some fresh pastrami, which smelled fantastic. We had to vacu-sealed beef briskets. Chef Janet had some pictures that showed us where the brisket on the cow was. Imagine a cow, and imagine that hump they have in their chest. That is the brisket. It is a Category 2, borderline 3 meat. So you don’t grill it, you need to break down the fibers with some low and slow method of cooking. Anyhow, I opened one pack and Carlos opened the other. Immediately a smell hit us in the face. My brisket was absolutely rank. I was sure of this, but we confirmed it with a couple of chefs to make sure it wasn’t salvageable. We tossed it. We’ll get another from the purveyors.

Since I could no longer help with breaking down the brisket (trimming the fat), I started closing up shop. We had to strain stocks, skim fat from our marmite, and cool down the stocks. A lot goes into all these things to produce stocks and meat for the school/restaurant. But what’s cool is that everyone benefits from it. It’s a team game.

Oh we also prepared a mixture for Boudin Blanc. Not 100% sure what it is, but I know it’s a sausage with rice, pig butt, and pig liver! We cut all this up, mixed in a bunch of veggies, and simmered for a while until everything was tender. To be honest, I don’t know how I feel about the liver. The pot smelled like liver, though Carlos said it didn’t have an overwhelmingly livery taste. We’ll see.

We didn’t have time to fill the sausages, but we cooled it down and will handle it today. We also have on the itinerary a few other deli meats, including cracked pepper turkey breast, maple ham, some fresh bacon, and other sausages, I’m sure. It’s fun, and very hands on.

Asian buffet pics

Picture from our 2nd buffet

We Souffléed it!!

What the hell is that supposed to mean? Well the literal translation of Soufflé is to blow up. Therefore, we blew it up! It was a great success, which was enjoyed by all. The flavor of everything was great, but even more so, the appearance was grand. I brought my camera in and shot a few photos. I will get those on here hopefully soon, and you’ll be able to see not only me, but the buffet as well.

I think to sum it up, when all was said and done, Chef Rob took us into the buffet prep room, closed the door and said, I need to be honest with you guys. The FCI hasn’t seen a buffet like this since probably as long as I’ve been here. He went on to thank us for not only the hard work and dedication that made it a success, but for making him look good in front of his peers. Other chefs were complimenting us, telling us that we did a fantastic job.

With that said, I must say, we did rock it like a Vegas whore. Nice analogy, huh? What was amazing was how cool, calm and reserved we all were. We prepped so well, and we were so thorough and organized that we were sitting back polishing off the details, not scrambling before the buffet. At 7:00, an hour and a half before showtime, Chef Rob was talking to another chef saying, "look at this, its 7:00 and I'm chilling back sipping a cup of coffee." We really did hit the high notes. From little things like doming off the top of the fried rice (What you know about dome?), and finishing with scallion blossoms, to laying down a bed of shredded coconut surrounded by orange slices and strawberry halves for our fried dumpling platter.

Let me give you a verbal visualization of some of our platters. I’ll start with more details on the dumpling platter.

I sliced a bunch of oranges. We overlapped slices around the oblong platter, with a few strawberry halves on top and covered the middle with a bed of coconut shreds, and then sprinkled on a small handfull of red peppercorns! Just picture that! It’s such a beautiful and simple presentation. We piled the dumplings in the middle.

For the spring rolls, we sliced cucumbers on the bias, and placed those along the perimeter, sprinkled with black pepper and made a pyramid of spring rolls in the middle. We had a spare refill platter with pea shoots (looked a little like spinach) piled on both ends, with 3 strawberry halves pointing out on top of each pile.

For the Spicy Thai chicken wings, I laid out some greens around a small mound of fried julienned wonton skins and topped that with a crowned orange half.

The raw tuna with taboulleh salsa was laid out diagonally along a mirror platter, simple with no other garnish, and it looked gorgeous. The beef platter (seared, yet raw in the middle with julienned cucumbers inside, and topped with black and white sesame seeds and a rolled blossom of pickled ginger) had an oval pile of the fried shredded wonton skins, and we placed the beef in concentric ovals around it.

The kimchi was served in a round dish, and we alternated overlapping pineapple wedges and orange slices around the perimiter of the bowl.

Oh the pineapples! I took a couple of pineapples and carved spirals going down and around the sides. Along the line of these carvings, we stuck our chicken and beef skewers into the pinapples. People simply had to pull them out, but you had to see how awesome it was. A spiral of skewered meats beautiful riding down the sides of the pineapple. I think it might have been my favorite presentation, though everything was gorgeous.

The duck carving station was magnificent also. Besides the fact that we were butchering the ducks in front of people with a cleaver, we laid out our sliced duck sous vide breast along the 3 sides away from the person butchering, in which he gave a few slices to each person along with the duck. There were also two long skinny platters (about 1.5 inches wide and 1.5 feet long) which we filled with nicely sliced and blossomed scallions for people to take with their duck.

For the duck confit buns, Chef Rob showed me this cool presentation trick with handkerchiefs (cloth napkins?) and aluminum foil. You take a square of aluminum and place it on top of the napkin so that the top side of the aluminum is lined up with the top side of the cloth. Then fold in the top two corner like your folding an airplane. Then fold them in again, and again until you have a thin pointy top, flaring out to thicker bottom. Then start at the tip you just made and start rolling it up. Slightly unroll it and you have a horn looking napkin. Make two of these, put them in opposite corners so the rolled in ends point to eachother and stack the buns up in between. It looked great.

The production group made the whole pig that they were trying to do, and it came out great, and it looked AMAZING! The glaze on the skin was beautiful, and the interior came out great. Their plan to layer different colors of pork was as successful as it could have been despite the problems they had with cutting the fatback. Wait til you see pictures. We also had the ducks hanging from above, and we put some Chinese lanterns and 4 flags up (Vietnam, China, Korea and Japan).

Oh, and last but not least we had 2 fozen ice bowls, one which we served iced tea out of, and another which we rested a bowl of coconut, mango and passion fruit sorbets on. When we froze the ice bowls we placed orange slices, strawberries, rosemary sprigs, lemon slices and other garnish inside, so when we took it out of the bowl it had an array of colors and fruits. It was really phenomenal.

My descriptions barely scratch the surface of the show we put on. As Carlos was carving the duck, Steve was continuously frying up more spring rolls and I was serving the tuna and beef as well as refilling platters, making sure we were stocked. We didn't run out of anything but everyone ate well! I wish I were a journalist or an author, so I can convey these ideas and visualizations a lot clearer and with more passion, but just wait til I get the pictures up!

We now have to get over the hype that we just worked up, and make our way down from the high of such a successful Asian buffet, and bring it back to a classic, beautiful French buffet. Very detail and flavor oriented. I don’t think we can put as much effort as we just put into the last one. Did I mention that I spent about 4-5 hours on Friday night preparing our duck confit buns? Well I did, and they were spectacular.

Aaaaaaaaand… GO!

It’s been a long 7 days since our last class. It was also our last class of Level 2. Everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving and cooked their birds perfectly, supposedly. I could write a post on my thanksgiving and all the wonderful food we prepared, but I’ll spare you the glory.

There was a different air in the place. Every time we advance a level, and for that matter, all of the Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday classes, a new class comes in. The last class that came in was only a level below us. The new class is a whopping TWO levels below us. There were people asking ME how to tie their neckerchiefs, and about their side towels. But to be honest, this was not much of a concern. I was thinking about Level 3.

The new class is now on the second floor. The Kitchen is a lot older than the one we were using, but it feels like it has more of what we need. First off, there are about 5 or 6 scales for measuring ingredients. Our last class had, at best, 2. The pots and pans looked a little more beat up and weathered… but that just means they’ve been around and have tasted more food.

Oh, an interesting point to consider. Level 3 is all about consistency and TIME MANAGEMENT. We have 4 sets of recipes that we do every 4 classes. The recipes consist of a soup/appetizer, fish, entrée and dessert. The first 4 classes we work in teams of 2, then we go solo. As a team, we only need to do 2 of the recipes, and when we go solo, we still do 2.

Most importantly, there is a time frame. Chef Rob wants them done at a certain time, and that is a pretty set time. He did state, I’d rather your dishes be 10 minutes late and perfect, than on time and incomplete.

Chef Rob
The first time we met him was in one of our last classes in Level 2. He came up to our class and was pretty strict. Asking why some people had their aprons off while we were still in class. He was very succinct. “I don’t want to see the book in class, you better bring notes, and be prepared.” That was our initial impression. Downstairs in Level 3, Chef Rob seemed really different. He was very nice, and was helping us out, not trying to break our balls or anything. He helped us with our food, and brought us necessary pots. The assistant chef showed us a technique of cooling down our marmite that we were using for our consommé. He didn’t just tell us, he brought us the bain marie with ice. I did not expect such assistance, but it was very much appreciated.

Chef Rob walked around the class assisting everyone, seeing what he had to work with. But as a team’s time approached, he focused more of his attention on them, giving pointers on serving, and finishing the dish. Speaking of which, service is more heavily graded in level 3. Presentation, temperature of the food (as I have learned the hard way with my mashed potatoes), cleanliness of the plate, temperature of the plate, etc., is all scrutinized more carefully. Finger prints on a plate is unacceptable. A bowl of soup is served with a plate and a doily beneath it.

We’re working on the details now. But Chef Rob seems really great so far. He’s enthusiastic and loves to teach, so he said. He is definitely on par with Chef Tom. Most importantly, he was very nice in the critique of our food. We did a pretty good job to begin with, but where we were slightly off, he was very nice in explaining what went wrong and how to fix it the next time.

Moving right along, I was paired up with the new girl. I won’t mention her name yet because I don’t know her well enough to trust that it’s ok. But she was the one who did really well on the test, and I was ready to learn a thing or two. What I do know is that she is quick with the knife. She is confident in her cuts, and makes them quickly. She worked on the julienne and cuts for actually making the consommé, including mixing in the meat and egg whites, etc. I worked on the macedoine garnish for the consommé. The consommé was the first thing to be prepared, with a service time of 8:00. As a refresher, the consommé is a disgusting mush of lean meat, julienned veggies, chopped tomatoes and egg whites, gently simmered in beef marmite. After a little while the mush starts to congeal and form a raft at the top. You have to let the raft collect all the fat and particles and then ladle out the consommé into a chinois, degrease, and serve over the macedoine of vegetables.

Ours was looking great from the beginning, so chef said. Everything was going really well until my partner accidentally cracked some pepper into the consommé. It’s supposed to be peppered before it’s ladled, and only salted afterwards. He said the first thing he tasted was pepper. We also had a little fat on top, which may have been a result of using a fat laden ladle. I also put too many vegetables in the bowl.

It was a little stressful getting the dish served but we did it. Imagine those Iron chefs plating 5 or 6 master dishes in about an hour (including prep work)?! That’s damn impressive.

The next dish we got cracking on was a poached chicken. I don’t feel a chicken, or any meat really lends itself to being poached. But it was actually not bad. I’ll make this description very brief. First we wash, remove the wishbone and wingtips and poach the chicken in cold water. Bring to a boil, and simmer for 2 minutes. Take it out, and put it in an ice bath to stop the cooking. Next we’re supposed to cover with stock and bring to BELOW a simmer for about 20-30 minutes. I mentioned this previously, but I believe most, if not all of the cooking times we are told is more than enough. The chicken cooked in less than 20 minutes, and it was almost 160 degrees, which is ok, but can be considered over cooked. That’s barely enough time to make enough cocotte and prepare the rest of the vegetables that go in the dish.

Either way, the dish came out about 5 minutes late, but everything was cooked perfectly minus that fact that we cooked the potatoes in the broth we served it in, which lent itself to being a little on the cloudy side. Not the end of the world. The food and our plates were hot, and the taste was good, especially considering it was a poached chicken.

After this dish, we were done. Some other people needed to present their apple tart, but we completed our dishes. I feel, for our first class, we did a great job. Chef was pleased with everyone in the class, and we all (including the chef), set a good impression.

I’m not exactly sure what’s on the menu for the next class, but I am working alone. I will be doing the garde manger and saucier positions alone, and I will be on top of my game. This is my first chance to shine, and I’m sure I will. I’m not user when I became so competitive, maybe it was day 1, but I guess I am only out for me. When you work as a team, you obviously succeed and fail as a team, but when you go solo everything that’s great was created from your own to hands, and everything that sucks came from your own ass.

Some words to live by in Level 3: discipline and consistency.

The Quintessential

So this was our first class sans that one guy. It was a little different. The air felt a little more mature, if that’s possible. I know the guy’s partner was happy to not work with him, so maybe that helped the atmosphere. Ultimately, Chef Tom seemed really pleased about it. Not for “failing” or leaving a kid behind, but because he did the right thing and the class was filled with able and intelligent chefs-to-be.

Anyhow, we took our HACCP test. I am writing this post 3 days after it happened, and therefore my mind isn’t preoccupied with the HACCP. In fact it’s preoccupied with the Level 2 final that we’re taking in 2 hours. But you’ll hear more about that later. I'm pretty confident that I passed the HACCP test, but who knows for sure. I did some last minute studying, and I think I secured a few of the answers that could have otherwise had me retake the test. But I'm not worried about it.

I’ve titled this post as I did because these are two of the most popular, and exemplary vegetable preparations in French cuisine. Chef Tom was glad that we had almost an entire class to just these two fairly simple dishes. And after tasting them, I understood it.

The ratatouille calls for a tomate fondue as its base, and, according to the recipe, we add the other ingredients to this base. However, Chef Tom said it’s important that we cook the vegetables separately, and combined them afterwards. I’m not exactly sure why this makes a difference, but I think its concentrates the individual flavors which are then incorporated in the tomate fondue to meld with the other flavors. The eggplant is a little bit of a disappointment. It turns to a mush, but that’s what eggplant does.

I must say, Chef demoed some of the cuts, particularly the pepper tiles, which were about a half inch to ¾ inch squared, and my partner made them about a cm squared. They looked fine, but I was cutting vegetables at ½ inch squared and hers were smaller, and therefore incongruous. Did this make a difference? Not at all. But to me, I was a little disturbed by it. I’m getting a little picky on some things. It can be bad, but when we’re showed something, as Chef repeatedly tells us, it’s to reproduce, practice and learn. Not to do it a bit differently, unless we’re given permission to do so (en votre facon).

Anyhow, we combined it all, let the flavors mesh, and we served it in a round mold shape, with some chiffonade of basil on top. It was gorgeous, and very flavorful, particularly for a mostly brown vegetable mush. The next dish, however, was better, in my opinion.

The Confit Bayaldi was a beautiful pinwheel of colored vegetables baked in the oven on a bed of sautéed onions and peppers. We filled a round ring mold with the onions and peppers and carefully laid out the sliced eggplant, zucchini, yellow squash and tomatoes around like a pinwheel, within the ring. It took a little finesse and time (something you probably don’t have in excess in a restaurant), but it really looked beautiful. The flavors were delicate but together they made a delicious dish.

Considering we only had to make these two dishes, we had plenty of time, and as tradition has been playing itself out, Chef talked to us about his life experiences for the remaining hour that we had.

This was our last class until the final, and our last class with Chef Tom, not including the final and the lecture we were going to have on kitchen equipment. Chef Tom has been our first impression of the French Culinary Institute and to the professional kitchen. And what a good first impression it was. He is indeed a great chef, and despite his military background, is pretty easy going and very lenient. He talked a big talk, but hey, he walked the walk.

We learned a lot from him, and now its time to see what the other master chefs of the FCI can bestow on us. (after the Level 2 test that is)

A taste of Italia at the FCI

Last class we made ricotta and mozzarella for a reason. We were going to use it in our raviolis for this class! That’s to say we made ravioli – the pasta and filing from scratch – gnocchi, risotto and rice pudding! The rice pudding was made from risotto rice, and it was pretty interesting.

Anyhow, the first thing we had to do was make the pasta. It’s pretty darn simple. One egg, some flour and salt, a touch of oil and that’s about it. Mix it together and then knead it like a mofo, for about 10 minutes. Chef told us a pretty nifty trick. Instead of kneading like a mofo, all you really have to do is incorporate it all, give it a minute or so of kneading, and then just start rolling it through the pasta roller, folding it, and re rolling it. This, in effect, replaces the kneading, and it does something else. It gets the dough flat and ready to be rolled after you refrigerate it. This is a pretty nifty shortcut, if nor nothing else, it replaces the grueling kneading step. However, as everyone waited to “knead” their dough on just 2 pasta rollers, I spent the time kneading it. Chef said it was perfect and to just pop it in the fridge. Sweet. Nothing like keeping it old-school.

Anyhow, while the dough rested we did a few things. We started simmering the rice pudding risotto in milk and vanilla. Twice the milk boiled over right under our noses. Not the end of the world, but still, it sucks that we weren’t attentive enough to catch it before it happened.

So as the rice pudding boiled and the dough rested, we boiled, peeled and air dried some potatoes for our gnocchi, made a tomato sauce (similar to our tomate fondue), and started to prepare the ricotta stuffing. It was multi-tasking at its best.

The cheese filling was ricotta, parmesan, salt, pepper, an egg yolk and cream (and a few chopped herbs). Oddly enough, the ricotta which was sitting in the fridge for a couple of days was a little on the dry side. I guess it was sitting in breathable cheese cloth and not in a closed container.

I added a significant amount of cream but the mixture still seemed a little dry. But I didn’t want to over do it because I knew, ultimately, it would melt, which it did, and it was delicious.

We rolled out the pasta dough and made our ravioli. In the interest of time, and for the heck of it, I cut out my ravioli, but I didn’t shape them. Most of the people in class used round molds. I just left them “rustic.” I’m definitely a fan of this approach. It doesn’t affect the flavor, you get a little more pasta, but you also get an old world feel, rather than a cookie cutter, over worked product.

It was really good, and if you like rustic, it looked great too.

The gnocchi was surprisingly delicious as well! I thought it was going to be really bland, but it was quite tasty and had a nice texture. We riced the potatoes, then sifted some flour over it. After making a well, we put an egg or two in the middle and combined it all. Some salt and pepper and working it as little as possible, we combined it all, and rolled out a long log. Chopped the log and straight into the boiling water. A few minutes later, gnocchi was floating at the top, and bam, done.

It was a really productive first half of class. The next half we made a saffron risotto, which is a really simple preparation.

Our Risotto was less colorful than some other people’s. The recipe called for a pinch of saffron. And that’s all we put. However, we were told that in small batches for customers, we should use more saffron so it’s more colorful, and the customer could appreciate it more. It was like the difference in color between an orange and a blood orange. It’s clear the blood orange is a better looking product. I asked to try my classmate’s to see the difference. Very little difference, if any. My partner did however stir in a heck of a lot of butter at the end. It was a ridiculous amount, and I decided she could take it home.

At home we don’t have chicken stock at our disposal, so we just use chicken bouillon. In fact any recipe that calls for chicken stock that I’ve made in the house, I have used chicken bouillon to make a broth. It’s perfect, and adds a nice amount of salt, but not too much (or is it MSG?). But the risotto comes out great.

So we lost that guy in this class. He seemed pretty pissed, but I’m sure he was more pissed after we left and he could think it over and talk with his friends about it. But I think he knows it’s for the best. I think he’s going to redo level 2 when the next class gets to it. Turns out his buddies from Staten Island are in level 1 now, and he will probably be in their class. So maybe it’s better for him. I do know that he is going to act like a know-it-all in their class, but he’s probably gonna be just as bad as he has been, which will piss a bunch of people off.

Who knows, maybe it’s a humbling experience, or a realization. I’m sure he’s going to be a marked man if Chef Tom has his way, but then again, if you got left back, you should be watched carefully to make sure you don’t waste more time and money.

Next class he wave our HACCP/SafeServ test, and then we have the rest of the class to make ratatouille and another classic vegetable dish, confit bayaldi. I’m sure there will be plenty of time to discuss life with Chef Tom.

OH, one more thing. There were two visitors in our class who were making up a missed class and both of them were quite on the annoying side. Particularly this asian guy who was, supposedly, in the middle of studying at med school. He was such a douche bag, and I hope he never makes up a calss with us again. he was so annoying. Which makes me appreciate some of the good people, and friendly, not annoying, characters in our class.

Con queso? Con queso?

So, we were guinea pigs for this class. That is, the first, THE FIRST, class to have a cheese tasting class. Traditionally, they made ricotta cheese, and maybe some others. We not only made ricotta and mozzarella, but we had a pretty well thought out cheese tasting.

Oh, we also had a HACCP review. Did you know that we have our HACCP test on SATURDAY!!! I’m not really worried about it, but still. Everyone should do alright. We had a nice refresher today.

After our refresher, we went right into our cheese course. It was pretty well thought out. We were going to try a linear tasting of 3 main dairy/cheese sources: Cow, Goat and Sheep. So we progressed from the basic ingredient, milk, then to a yogurt, then to a fresh cheese, and then to slightly more aged and complex cheeses.

There are a hell of a lot of characteristics that are pretty bogus. Not righteous or gnarly, but just bogus. Maybe if you have the most disciplined sense of taste and smell you could label some of the cheeses with some of these names. But for the most part, there were about 10 different classifications that repeatedly came up. The one that was the most distinct was “gamy.” That taste of lamb that you can only describe as the taste of “game” was so distinct in the lamb and sheep dairy. The milk, for starters was straight up game flavored. It wasn’t really pleasant. It made cow’s milk seem extremely delicious. This was a constant theme in all of the sheep cheeses. They weren’t my favorites. The cow’s line had some good cheddar and creamy brie like cheese (was it camembert?). The goat has some nice flavors as well, though there was one stank cheese. The flavor was a lot better than the smell. And we had a couple of moldy cheeses which were a lot better than one would think.

Chef asked “so do you think you guys can taste a cheese and know what you’re talking about?” It was one of those rhetorical questions, I knew that. But I said “NO!” I mean, we just took a ½ hour course on tasting a few random cheeses from 3 different animals. Yes I know a little more than I knew, but am I really prepared to contribute meaningful input about a cheese by just tasting it? I really don’t think so. I could probably point out the gamy flavor found in sheep or goat cheese and know its one of those two, but not much more than that.

Either way, it was extremely interesting, and I learned a lot. I’m telling you, there were probably 50-60 flavor classifications. That’ll take some intensive tasting.

Next we made cheese! I’m not sure how much of “making” the cheese we did for the mozzarella, but the ricotta was pretty amazing. We took 2L of milk, added ¾ of a teaspoon of citric acid and some cheese salt, and just heated to 180F, then let it sit. The milk solids coagulated and separated from the liquid, primarily water. After a little while, we scooped out the solids, tied it in some cheese cloth and it’s currently sitting in the fridge.

The mozzarella was a bit different. We started with cheese curds. It was a semi-solid block of curds that were stacked on top of each other and compressed. We took a bowl full of these, chopped them into cubes and added 170F water and some salt. After some stirring they softened and we clumped them together and started stretching them to smooth them out.

So the reason I am skeptical about it is because all we did was stretch the curds in warm water. We didn’t make or prepare the curds or anything. It was a little sad. However, the resulting cheese was very delicious. It was definitely mozzarella cheese. It was stringy with a little chew to it. We left them in balls, but we will be using them for our pasta class on Thursday. We could have made knots, added herbs, rolled them with sliced hams and basil; it’s a pretty versatile cheese.

Well, we have our HACCP test on Saturday, our final on Tuesday and then we come back in a week two level 3! We met our new chef. He seemed a little on the hard side, but Chef Tom said he’s a nice guy. I feel like that one guy who is struggling, may have a hard time in level 3. But we’ll see. We’re also a lot more focused on timing. That is one of my weaknesses. I like to absorb what I’m doing. But I think by this point I have absorbed the basics and the techniques and its time to just “do.”