Thursday, March 6, 2008

ORDERING, 2 BASS!

Today is the first day that we get to really feel the heat. Being in the restaurant kitchen is unlike any level so far. Well, I guess it’s closest to level 3, but still different. We were prepared for 2 dishes, as in we wrote up note cards for the two dishes that we were to be responsible for. There is the Mediterranean style braised bass with a garlic aioli crouton, and the Arctic Char, served with creamed spinach, pomme anna, and yuzu hollandaise sauce.

I am in quite a predicament. For level 3 I left work a little earlier than I should have to get to class. For level 4, this was usually not an issue since there wasn’t much of a rush except for buffet. Now for Level 5, if we are to do two dishes, we are most definitely going to need to get in earlier to prepare. I know just picking the stems off of the spinach takes FOREVER. However, for our first class, we only did the first dish, the bass. I got in at 5:45, and we were barely ready to cook the fish when service began. We needed to chop a bunch of onions, some peppers, gather the mise en place, peel tomatoes, Scott made a fish fumet earlier in the night, we needed to prepare the aioli, toast the croutons, then we had to cook all of the braising liquids, and once that was ready, we could prepare the fish. It took about two hours to do all this. I thought we’d have some time to spare, but a second dish is looking pretty impossible at the moment. Level 6 was also only doing 1 fish dish with just 2 people, as well. Their‘s was a barramundi, which had a few more accompaniments with it. I think they had pommes puree and something else. I wasn’t quite paying attention.

They had a bunch of tips for us, and most importantly, since our dishes went up simultaneously, we needed to communicate so the dishes came out hot and together. We did a great job though, I think. It was tight, and hectic at first, but we pulled it together. By the end, more people were ordering the barramundi, so it was easier on us. I think they ordered it because it was called barramundi. I know I would. In fact, our Mediterranean braising liquid was quite good! It had fennels seeds, bay leaves and crushed red pepper to flavor it. It also had green and black olives, potatoes, chopped tomatoes and red pepper tiles (in addition to a slew of onions) to add a nice contrast of tastes and texture.

Basically, once the braising liquid was complete, we ladled some into a sautoir, seasoned it with S&P, brought it to a simmer, then seasoned some bass and threw it in until it was cooked.

I guess I should go over the ordering method briefly. The dinner is prix fixe style, so everyone orders an appetizer, a fish, a meat and a dessert. They also have vegetable alternatives for the fish and meat, if necessary. So when they order they call out the order “2 BASS, 2 BARRAMUNDI!!” And we call back from our respective stations “2 BARRAMUNDI!” “2 BASS!” They also mark the orders on a board. When the appetizer goes out they star our fish dish to let us know we should fire it up because it’s going out soon. Then when they need the fish they say “FIRE 2 BASS!” We then communicate with the barramundi guys to make sure they’re ready when we’re ready and vice versa so the food and plates stay hot.

All in all, we did pretty darn well! Scott is a great partner. Sometimes he rushes and forgets to season or something like that, but we were under the gun, and we’ve all done it. Tonight should be better considering we still only have one dish, and we have leftover aioli, so we don’t have to prepare that, and we know exactly what needs to be done. Tonight, I would also like to prepare the tomatoes, as far as peeling them, and we can make sure we have a fish fumet, and so forth. Then again, I will get in earlier on Saturday and we’ll have more time to prep everything. We’ll see what happens tonight (Thursday).

Goodbye Level 4


All in all, I must say, the 8 of us in level 4 have pulled off something that, as Chef Rob explained it, could only have been done by dedicated students. And I think we are just that. The 8 of us there have one agenda when we’re in class, and that is to produce a quality product. Chef Rob has explained to our next chef that we are a great class of 8 that works like a class of 16. Chef Janet said many times how sad she was to see us go, and we have to visit frequently. Chef Janet was definitely awesome. She showed us some amazing things that we never imagined doing (making our own bacon and pastrami and ham!!!) Chef Rob also showed us some incredible things and opened our eyes to new techniques and possibilities.

By the way, I believe I mentioned the slow cooked wrapped chicken that Chef Dave Arnold showed us. Well I took some home and fried it up for some friends who were in the house, and they were amazed. I explained I didn’t make it, but it was still fantastic. I didn’t deep fry it, but I did sauté it. And I made a rookie mistake. I got the oil nice and hot, but I failed to dry the skin properly before putting it in. It made for a little more of a mess (splattering), but it also allowed the skin to stick a little to the pan. It wasn’t a terrible thing, the food still came out great, but I should have known better. I realized it as soon as I put it in the pan. I must say, it’s been a while since I did some real cooking, so I need to really think a bit more before I jump right into it. So as a reminder, when deep frying or sautéing, the purpose of the oil is for flavor, color and to prevent sticking. If you do not remove the excess moisture, then you counteract this initiative and there will be more splattering and sticking to the pan.

Anyhow, to be perfectly honest, after we finished buffet, it felt like level 4 was over. And unfortunately that was after the first two weeks of level 4. Family meal was… just rushing to make some food and then not really giving a shit about the rest of class. Most of the time we busted our asses for no reason because people either didn’t need food, or we had our buffets and no one ate the family meal. And then when we got to production, we were never really rushing (except for getting the fish and chicken to the restaurant), but we were doing fun projects like curing meats and the like. Chef Janet was great because she let us focus on the aspects that were important, like the filleting of the fish and the butchering of the chicken, while she maintained the stocks and worked on other projects. And then when we were ready, she let us run the show.

So on our last day of level 4, the buffet guys did an entirely dessert themed buffet. They must have made about 10 or 12 different desserts, ranging from individual cheesecakes, to crème brule, chocolate tarts, bread pudding, ice cream sandwiches, and the list goes on. It was pretty amazing. That meant they weren’t making real food, so the family meal and production group had to step in. We put out our deli meats, a smoked sturgeon and a cheese fondue station for the pastrami. The family meal guys put together a “breakfast for dinner” station. They used some of our molasses bacon that we made. We didn’t let them touch the maple brown sugar bacon. I must say, the molasses bacon was absolutely delicious. I will try the maple bacon this weekend, but I am trying to eat a little better so maybe just a touch.

By the way, the pastrami was phenomenal! The ham and turkey breast were also amazing! Its indescribable, to be honest. Have you been to Katz's delicatessen? Well our meats could have been showcased there. It was quite an accomplishment. I went to party later that evening with the deli meats, and between about 5 people, we finished over 2.5 lbs of pastrami and turkey breast. They were impressed and I was pleased that we were able to make such an impressive product.

But the family meal team was making bacon egg and cheeses on bagels, they prepared lox and set out cream cheese for bagels, they were making omelettes, eggs benedict with a fresh hollandaise, etc. etc. It was pretty great. Oh they also put together a delicious corned beef hash and some tasty home fries. They did a fantastic job.

Oh, how can I forget? One of our classmates, Grace, is a great cellist. Her roommate is a musician as well. So Grace asked her to come in and play violin, and she did just that. It was AMAZING. It was such a classy affair, though we were in a kitchen and many of us were wearing our kitchen whites. Chef Rob was so proud of this class. We consistently raised the bar and produced some quality work. Chef Rob made a reputation for himself as a kick ass level 4 instructor, but he would never fail to mention that it couldn’t have been done with the 8 of us.

On to the kitchen of l'ecole.