Friday, February 22, 2008

Production 2

This may be one of the more interesting sections so far. As I have mentioned a number of times, Level 4 is split into 3 sections. Apparently they will be reorganizing and redistributing responsibility of these sections for the classes that follow, however, for now, there is buffet, which is strictly setting up for the 2 buffets that you produce while in that section. There is family meal, which, as its name suggests, is strictly providing food for everyone in the school to eat (including the nights of buffets since not everyone makes it to the buffets). And finally there is production the section I am in now. Production is the least strict section as far as guidelines of what you have to do. Of course the buffet allows creativity, but you are only working on your buffet. For production, you start your night by assessing the stock situation, and checking to see if you need to produce chicken stock or veal stock or a fumet. You also MUST break down the fish and chickens necessary for the restaurant. We’re supposed to have that done by 6:30, but with 3 people working on 3 different things, it gets complicated. Chef Janet understands that the stocks are important, but she actually lets us work on breaking down the proteins and she gets the stocks going. I think that’s really great of her so we can then focus on the more creative aspects which I am going to get into.

By the way, I broke down the cod. After a THOROUGH examination I only pulled out a couple of worms from the fish. I think that’s pretty good!! That is, pretty good that the fish only had 2 worms. It was still gross. The cod was pretty nice to fillet. I think I did a great job. I got all the pin bones out, cleaned it up nicely and skinned it nicely. I was pretty proud of it. I wasn’t super speedy, but hey, it was my first time doing it, and I was trying to do a great job for the guys in the restaurant. I can’t imagine when some of the knuckleheads in Level 3 come to level 4 and break down some busted chickens for us. We’ll see. I’m sure the chef will have something to say if we’re getting poor cuts.

So after all this, we delved right into our projects. We got our second brisket of beef, which I cleaned up and cured with the pastrami salt mixture. Carlos finished up the Boudin blanc we were making (ground it up, seasoned it and got it into sausage casings), and Steve got going on some cures for our ham and turkey breasts.

We literally injected brine with a huge syringe into the ham and turkey and watched the flesh pump up. I think its going to be great. The brines had all kinds of herbs and seasoning. We got those puppies submerged in brine, and now it’s the waiting game.

After dinner, Steve and I prepared two cures for bacon that we will be making. One cure was a molasses cure, the other, which I think will be better, was a brown sugar and maples syrup cure! How does that sound? And you know, it really wasn’t hard. Its something ANYONE can do. Provided of course you buy the belly fat and have the means to smoke it afterwards.

I think, however, the highlight of the night was deboning a whole chicken WITHOUT taking it apart. What’s that? You want details? Sure, why not.

So the first thing you do is cut the wing off at the second joint (as we normally do). Then you take out the wish bone, which, we learned a new method to do, which doesn’t tear into the flesh. Take your knife and scrape away at it. Don’t go jabbing in there and hacking away at the flesh. Just take your knife, scrape, and then use your finger to dig in and get the bone. It was a great new trick, and it worked well.

Once you have that out, prop the chicken up and look at its shoulder. Start cutting and scraping away the flesh. Detach the arm from the shoulder and keep making your way down the one arm bone. Soon you’ll be able to pop the arm bone right out. Get going on the other arm, then don the ribs and around the neck, spine and back. There will come to point when you need to flip it over and star from the bottom of the rib cage and then the thigh and legs. I guess I can’t rally describe it since it’s mostly a process of scraping against bone and cutting around joints. But I assure you, I have a beautifully boned chicken, intact, waiting for a mean stuffing. We’re thinking about stuffing it with seasoned ground pork, which would probably be delicious! She also gave us a brilliant idea of filling it with a portion of pork loin, surrounded by either ground pork or chicken, and then roasted. The beauty of it is being able to have a seemingly whole chicken and slicing across it as if it’s a boneless piece of tenderloin, eating almost every part. This makes a fantastic centerpiece for a fancy meal. You can even stuff it with a traditional stuffing if you’d like.

In all, this is a fun portion of the class. Even though we ran about 20 minutes late since we needed to break down the day time stocks, it was still very fun, informative and creative!

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Let’s see where this goes…

For starters there are a few main goals for production. The first and foremost is to prepare the proteins that the restaurant will be using. That is, breaking down a few chickens and a few fish. However, opposed to the chickens we broke down for family, these chickens require more care and attention. Since it is for the restaurant, it is imperative that the skin remain intact and you get the oysters, remove the wishbone and manchonner the legs. It’s rolling back to the basics again, and doing it right and fast.

We weren’t told that we needed to get this done by 6:30! We got in at 5:45 and we took a mini tour around the production area, counted stocks, etc. But no one mentioned that we needed to break down these meats for the restaurant by 6:30. With that said, one of the restaurant chefs came in and yelled at Carlos because he didn’t have the chickens ready in time. It was a bit of a rude awakening, but at least we know that it needs to be done earlier. The fish, I assume since they take less time to cook, were not pressured, but Steve and I took our time, and were no earlier than Carlos. There’s a lot of pressure to make sure we do not mess up these fillets, and to make sure we get all the skin off, and get all the pin bones. Whenever you’re doing something for someone else, you want to do a great job so it reflects nicely on you, and they know you’re trustworthy (which may be a downfall!! Sometimes you do a menial task so well you get asked to do it again and again!)

Actually, what’s pretty gross is the cod have WORMS in them. And this is NATURAL! But DISGUSTING. Steve was pulling worms out of the cod!! It was sick. But it had to be done. I just had some cod at a restaurant the other day, and it looked good, and I didn’t see any worms, not that I was looking, but the thought of it now is kind of nasty. Even though I am the type of person who will justify that if the worm is cooked, it’s probably okay to eat, but it’s still gross seeing the worms in the fish.

Something interesting was that we were told to use our butchering knife instead of our fillet knife for breaking down the fish. I can’t say that I was impressed with it. It’s so rigid that I couldn’t ride the knife along the bones, but instead I would start at the bones and end up just cutting into the flesh slightly. The fillet Looked fine, but I would have preferred the fillet knife with perfect smooth lines. It’s a mixed blessing that we only have 6 classes of breaking down these proteins. The pressure will be off, but at the same time, this is what being a chef is all about. Being able to take a whole fish, chicken, etc., and transform it from raw to beautiful and cooked.

Along those lines, we prepared a dry spice cure for some fresh pastrami, which smelled fantastic. We had to vacu-sealed beef briskets. Chef Janet had some pictures that showed us where the brisket on the cow was. Imagine a cow, and imagine that hump they have in their chest. That is the brisket. It is a Category 2, borderline 3 meat. So you don’t grill it, you need to break down the fibers with some low and slow method of cooking. Anyhow, I opened one pack and Carlos opened the other. Immediately a smell hit us in the face. My brisket was absolutely rank. I was sure of this, but we confirmed it with a couple of chefs to make sure it wasn’t salvageable. We tossed it. We’ll get another from the purveyors.

Since I could no longer help with breaking down the brisket (trimming the fat), I started closing up shop. We had to strain stocks, skim fat from our marmite, and cool down the stocks. A lot goes into all these things to produce stocks and meat for the school/restaurant. But what’s cool is that everyone benefits from it. It’s a team game.

Oh we also prepared a mixture for Boudin Blanc. Not 100% sure what it is, but I know it’s a sausage with rice, pig butt, and pig liver! We cut all this up, mixed in a bunch of veggies, and simmered for a while until everything was tender. To be honest, I don’t know how I feel about the liver. The pot smelled like liver, though Carlos said it didn’t have an overwhelmingly livery taste. We’ll see.

We didn’t have time to fill the sausages, but we cooled it down and will handle it today. We also have on the itinerary a few other deli meats, including cracked pepper turkey breast, maple ham, some fresh bacon, and other sausages, I’m sure. It’s fun, and very hands on.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

BUSTED!!

Let me preface this post by saying “DO THE RIGHT THING.” Let me follow this preface by saying, no one in my class, including myself, are bad people, with the intentions of cheating or sneaking around the school and doing things we shouldn’t be doing. With that said, let me get into my story.

On Saturday, I think I mentioned I came in at 2:00 in the afternoon to assist the buffet group. I wasn’t asked, I wasn’t told, I volunteered. Should I receive special treatment or mention for this. Nope. A simple thank you is great, and I received just that. It was my pleasure to help them out. I actually just rolled out some pasta, mondered some tomatoes for an impromptu stuffed tomato dish chef decided on and did a few other random things for the chef that allowed him to focus more of his time on the buffet. I was just happy to help.

Steve on the other hand, was in the school at around 8:00AM for a management class he is taking, so I don’t know what that entails, but he was there MAD early, and then he even assisted the buffet group by setting up the “hanging rig” for their class as well.

Yes, this will be long winded, as always. So you probably read my post on the little family meal that could, but didn’t. We did indeed bust our asses all night and did what we needed to do; in addition to the help we gave the buffet group throughout the day. We cleaned up our area so that it was spotless, and we still had 20 minutes left in the class. Steve let out an innocent sigh of exhaustion followed by the courtesy explanation for the sigh, “I’m exhausted.” The family meal chef took that cue and said, you know what guys, you should just go. You did a great job today (it was only Steve and I, Carlos was out sick) and we’re done, you should just go. We looked at each other and basically told her, well Chef Rob said we shouldn’t go early especially without his permission. She said, very matter of factly, oh, don’t worry, just go, I insist. (I may be changing some of the exact words, but I assure you the meaning was very clear and my recollection and retelling of the story does not change the tone or intent of how it was delivered to us).

We were indeed tired. And of course everyone else was, but we were done. We were clean, we’ve accomplished our goal, and we were twiddling our thumbs. So we took her cue, and we left.

We did the wrong thing.

We justified it to ourselves, particularly with the family meal chef’s blessings, and the assistance we gave to the buffet team.

Sure enough as we were leaving class on Tuesday night, he gave us a little scolding. “Guys, about leaving early on Saturday, that wasn’t cool.” We explained to him that Chef Karen insisted that we leave. We told her that we shouldn’t and that he would probably disapprove, but she insisted. He said, he understands, and he’s sure that it won’t happen again, by either party. So we’re under the assumption that he will have a talk with Chef Karen, since he already had a talk with us. We were both a bit upset about it (Steve and I) because we knew it was “wrong,” but we were reassured that we should leave, and in fact, we really were very helpful and it was almost justified. Steve had spent 15 hours in the school that day, and I spent 10 hours there when I only needed to be there for 5. I am NOT justifying it. I’m just stating that perhaps Chef could have kept it to himself and justified it as well. But I guess it’s important to be consistent and fair (though, fairness in this situation could have had other factors playing in the game).

Anywho, our “punishment” for being dismissed early was we had to stay with a fish fumet that he was making for his buffet until it was fully cooked and cooled, which was no problem. A small price to pay for our foul. Unfortunately, there are deeper implications that I hope do not play out. For instance the term “trustworthy” comes to mind, as well as “sneaky” and “disloyal.” He gave me such a great review and I hope he doesn’t renege his sentiment and lower my grade or overall review because of it. Time will tell.

Well, just what you want after a long story not made short, a little review of Tuesday night’s class. Chef Karen forgot, or chose not, to order the meat for Tuesday’s class on Saturday, to prep and marinate so we can just cook it on Tuesday (we did leave a little earlier, therefore we did have the time). So when we got in, we had to prepare (QUICKLY) about 40-50 whole hanger steaks, briefly marinate them, grill them, finish in the oven, prepare chayote’s, arroz con frijoles, spaghetti squash, which definitely did not get out in time, and the salad and fruit salad.

We BARELY managed, and the Chayotes were taking longer than normal, so we almost didn’t even make it with those. Anyhow, we busted our asses off, with the help of two make-up students, and we got a DELICIOUS hanger steak, rice and chayote meal out. It was actually really delicious. I can’t imagine what it would be like if we had the steaks marinating since Saturday.

FYI, Chayotes, for my step mom reading this blog, I know she knows, but they are these vibrant green, almost pear looking, squashes. They are about the size and shape of mangoes and have a little bit of a creasing/wrinkling on the bottom. They, I assume, are a Hispanic/Latin American food, and were REALLY simple to prepare, and actually very tasty. I see them every time I’m in the grocery store but never think twice about them. We coated them in oil, salt and pepper (just a light coating), placed them cut side up, threw a little water in the pan to encourage steaming, and covered with foil. Then we popped them into a 350-375 oven for what should have been no more than an hour, and they came out tender and slightly browned on the top. It had a mild yet delicately sweet flavor. More bland than sweet, but you can taste the natural sugars. We placed in the center a spoonful of tomato fondue that we made, and it was very good. Surprisingly good.

The highlight was the Spanish style rice that Chef Wanda (who I believe is Puerto Rican) whipped together while we were cleaning up the steaks.

It worked out well. Everything came together and we pulled through, right in time for family meal. I loved it, and everyone else seemed to be enjoying their food. Just two more family meals, and then production time. We are planning on making deli meats, including pastrami, honey ham, turkey breast, etc., in addition to the sausages that we can whip together in a night. I must say, all of the sausages that the production teams have whipped together have been great. We’ll see how it goes.

Monday, February 11, 2008

The little Family Meal that could (but didn’t).

Every Saturday is a level 4 buffet for us. Two people were in this buffet group, plus the chef. Despite the fact that Buffet is preparing a beautiful spread that could, essentially, feed the whole school, family meal must still prepare food for the classes that don’t make it down, and the people in the restaurant who do not have a chance to eat the buffet food.

In short, we also had 2 people plus the chef, and we busted our asses off for a few hours to get family meal done, when practically NONE of it was eaten. We did get it to the classes in levels 1 and 2, but I think they still came down to eat at the buffet.

Anyhow, we made Pollock (baked and fried), quinoa, string beans, and few other things which we reheated form a previous family meal (though they were very fresh).

Anyhow, with there just being two people in family meal, we pretty much had to get cracking. Steve tackled the Quinoa, and while that cooked, he worked on some veggies. I had prepared the baked and fried fish. Chef Karen cut the filets, and I deep fried about 75 pieces and prepared about 20 baked. The fried ones were simply dipped in an egg mixture and then coated with panko bread crumbs, and fried til golden. Of course they were tasty, though I must be honest… I didn’t even have a piece. They were thick cuts, so after they were fried, we needed to bake them for about 10 minutes until they were completely cooked. Salmon can be left slightly pink, but certain other fish shouldn’t be raw (Pollock is, a white fish).

The baked one took a bit more effort. I prepared a bread crumb topping with fresh chopped chives, basil, and parsley, tomatoes, S&P and olive oil. Chopping herbs is pretty time consuming. Not difficult, just time consuming. But after the mixture turned to a gritty green wet looking sand concoction, I brushed some mayo on the Pollock and pressed some of the green bread crumb mixture on top.

What was weird was I was going step by step in the recipe, but each subsequent step contradicted the previous step. For instance, the first step is to mix all the ingredients that I listed for the bread crumb mixture together. So after I chopped everything and combined I moved on to step two. Step two was to take the chives and mix them into the mayo?! They just told me to mix all the herbs into the bread crumbs?! I figured either way it was the same thing, but it didn’t make sense. Then, the very next step says sprinkle some tomatoes onto the fish?! It already told me to mix the tomatoes with the bread crumbs as well?! I figured everything was fine, but I mentioned it to the chef. I told her I was confident it was all the same and it will be fine, but I wanted to let her know. She agreed that it was fine, but she said she noticed these inconsistencies and forgot to mention them. I should have read the recipe before hand.

Family meal is great because the recipes are relatively simple. We don’t have time for an extravagant showing. We just whip together relatively basic things, in large quantities and very quickly. When I say basic, I don’t mean S&P only. The other day we had lavender chicken, Israeli couscous, lamb meatballs, etc. But the chicken was just lots of chicken and all the herbs and spices thrown together. We didn’t remove the rib bones, or manchonner the legs and wings.

It’s also a little boring, but it’s extremely productive, particularly when everyone eats and we overhear, “wow that was a tasty family meal today.”

Well, this is our last week of it before we move on to production.

Thursday, February 7, 2008

Here, we’re family

There were a couple of highlights of my night. The first was just the sheer amount of production we did in such a short period of time. Between 6 of us, (the 3 of us in level 4, Chef Wanda and 2 make up students) we created family meal for 60-80 people in a little over 2 hours. There was supposed to be some prep work completed on Saturday for Tuesday’s class. Of course we were not aware, so the family meal people didn’t do anything for the next meal (since we were switching groups).

Anyhow, as soon as we got into class, there were two big plastic crates full of chicken. Chef Wanda wanted us to quarter them, and quickly. And we did. We didn’t take so much care in getting the oysters out, or in removing the wish bones. But in about 20 minutes, we must have quartered 40 chickens. I was a little disappointed in the fact that we didn’t put much care into the process, but in the time frame that was presented to us, we did quite well.

After this, my task was the carrots. I had free reign over the carrots. Of course I had to peel about 20lbs. of them first. Then I had to peel parsnips as well, which were on the puny side, which actually made it harder to peel. At the advice/request of one of my classmates (Steve), I made a brown sugar/cinnamon butter mix to coat them in, and they were very delicious.

Besides the carrots and the quartering of the chicken, by 8:30, we had a phenomenal family meal prepared in no time. We also took a test on charcuterie which I am not so thrilled about. I studied last week, but I should have brushed up on it. Oh well.

What I AM thrilled about is I got a grade back for my buffet portion. A 98! 98 out of 100!! That’s pretty money! He took off two points on very random things, things that he could have been guilty of. But he commented that my hard work and dedication showed and that I have a good chance at making it in this career. That was pretty awesome to hear.

The motto of the class was: “if we like it, you will, too.” That is, whatever we make for family meal, if it pleases us, we don’t care if it’s what you want; you’re going to like it. That was fantastic because, as Chef Wanda said, there is some creativity that we’re allowed to play with.

Two days, 2 showers, many hand washes and lots of Purell later, I still have carrot pigment in my left index finger and thumb. Its borderline gross, but it doesn’t rub onto anything.

Oh, so somebody in our family meal group (I’m thinking it was the Chef) put a couple of trays of chicken into a different oven. Long after family meal ended, we found that chicken, charred beyond recognition. We were commenting on how we had JUST enough chicken, when there’s usually more to take home. We were preparing food for the next class when we found smoke coming out of the oven. What I got a great kick out of was Chef Wanda offered some to Chef Janet, and she replied, “are they done?” It was a you had to be there moment. The way she said it in a concerned factual manner, was just hilarious. I enjoyed it immensely. This level is so cool. We get to see a lot, and do a lot.